So, my stay in Berlin has been extremely intense, in large part because of what I've observed about modern German attitudes toward Judaism, how the Jewish community functions here, the way all things Jewish are kind of publicized and celebrated.
First observation: On Friday night, I went to Shabbat services with my friend, Toby (attending synagogue is a rare occurrence for me, but this synagoge (shown above; the photo with the dome) was partly destroyed during Krystallnacht, closed down by the Nazis, etc. so it really feels meaningful to me to be in there. The rabbi of the congregation is German--she converted to Judaism and within five years, has become a rabbi. Her husband, also non Jewish, also converted. In fact, about half the people in the synagogue were non-Jewish, many of them Germans who had become fascinated with Judaism and ended up converting. This woman rabbi was inducted this weekend, and there was a letter from the prime minister, local politicians, the press--Look! the government seems to be saying: We are a Jew-friendly country. See how liberal we are! Jews are thriving here. Except many of the Jews are Germans, converting to, perhaps, atone for the sins of their parents, trying to replace the population that was exterminated? I had dinner with friends of Toby's last night, and made the comparison to a Jewish version of the Stepford Wives--all the real Jews, with their imperfections, are killed off to be replaced by ultra-fervent German converts. At the synagogue, I met another couple, German, and her husband, German, who both converted and are having a second Jewish wedding, 10 years after they first married. They were among those praying most fervently.
Who am I to say who is and isn't a Jew, given that I rarely go to synagogue, don't keep Kosher and am agnostic in terms of my faith? But sitting in a synagogue in Berlin where half the congregation were tow-haired Germans-turned-gung-ho Jews felt odd, somewhat creepy (to be truthful) and downright STRANGE, as if a different sort of psychosis is now overtaking the German population in place of the psychoses that gripped the people in the 1930s and '40s.
Addendum: My friend Toby would like me to clarify that this high rate of converted synagogue members is unique to her very progressive synagogue. Hmmm. She also wants me to say that of the 120K Jews in Germany, 80% are Russian Jews. So there is your dose of balance. :-)
Another example: My friend and a group of other people launched a European Jewish literary magazine (known as Golem [www.golem-journal.de]; this particular issue was focused on the topic of circumcision. And they had a press conference and journalists came, because again, in my cyncial way, I think that whether consciously or unconsciously, there's a need to both overcompensate for the past horrors and show the world: Look how Jew-friendly we are now!!!!!
Yet. There are moving memorials to the Holocaust all over the city--there is no impulse or attempt to cover up for the past or sweep it under the rug. Quite the opposite--all the monuments exhort citizens to "Never forget!" I think that is admirable, and certainly not something witnessed in the United States (Native Americans, Japanese prison camps being prime examples). And, should the children of people who were alive during the Holocaust be held responsible for their parents' actions? Being here as a Jew evokes very, very mixed emotions.
Other striking things I've noticed: NO ONE jaywalks, even if the street is completely clear as cars as far as the eye can see. So I decided, following rules got the Germans into trouble--I'm going to be the rebellious American and jaywalk when there is no traffic coming.
There is no sense of political-correctness: Browsing in a flea market, there was a section called "black music" and there was a discount store with a cartoon image of a Scotsman in the window--the name was Mac Geiz--a "geiz" is a miser. So basically, the name of this discount store is cheap Scot. Another example: Toby and I were walking in a local neighborhood and we passed a sex toys shop. In the window was a huge floor to ceiling full color poster of two completely naked men embracing, butts in full view, completely embracing each other. It was an ad for a lube, called "Anal Spray" and it was on full display looking out on the street. I couldn't believe it--I took a picture, and wish I could post it here, but those who are curious can ask me individually. :-)
The subways are GREAT. Clean, easy to get around, fast, efficient, user-friendly. And funky--see the seat-cover photographed above--a multi-colored leopard print!)
On another note, I met some of Toby's close friends last night and we had wonderful Ethiopian food and great conversation. One woman is an extremely talented video artist, painter, collage-ist and photographer and I purchased two of her photos. They are so beautiful, I am thrilled to be able to bring them back and have them framed in my living room. (I'll record the results here!)Her name is Deborah Phillips.
In two hours, I am back to Rome. FOUR MORE DAYS.
Paola
