The second phase of my Sardinian trip was spent in Alghero, a town with a Spanish, Catalan influence (thought it seemed pretty Italian to me, I have to say). But it was quite pretty--on the water, near a natural site called Neptune's grotto, an 8 km series of caves filled with stalagtites and stalagmites, and with all the requisite windy streets and churches. It would have been more fun if the dollar had been stronger--the town is known for its beautiful gold filigreed jewelry, but even I, profligate spender that I can be, did not see the sense in buying jewelry in Euros. So I window shopped, ate nice seafood, and enjoyed the atmosphere. Though, truth to tell, I was a little lonely in Alghero--I'd been alone for about 5 days by the time I got there and I was feeling a little sorry for myself and wishing I had some company. Thank god for boooks, that's all I have to say. They can be really good dinner companions--I get very absorbed, which is nice when you are eating alone.
Part of the problem is that I was staying at this annoying resorty hotel with a gorgeous pool (and view out my terrace of a beach and palm trees (above), but with snotty people at the desk, who seemed to go out of their way to be unpleasant and slightly disdainful. Gradually, though, I saw its good points--it was in a pine forest but near the beach, it was only a few kilometers from a nuraghi, an ancient dwelling in a pre-Christian, pre Roman settlement. They only exist in Sardinia, and they were occupied by a population that was wiped out suddenly in a single fell swoop (or close to it). So it was interesting to learn some history I'd had no notion of. (Photos above--they basically look like huts made of stones.) I walked to one from my hotel along this pine-tree-shaded bike path. Extremely civilized.
And now, I'm ready to enjoy the atmosphere of my bedroom. I am TIRED after a full week of work, post vacation.
Buona notte!
Paola
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