in the tomb of the Popes in St. Peter's Basilica. It was eerie and claustrophobic, with stone images of the popes lying on top of the tombs, stretching back from the 1400s. The queen of sweden is also buried there--why?! She is the only woman. There were people kneeling at the tomb of the "people's pope" from the '60s, forgot his name, and also, of course, the last one.
As for St. Peter's itself, it is meant to inspire awe, and it does, though I find it somewhat oppressive. Then again, perhaps that is part of the feeling it is meant to conjure--the power of the church. Saw Michaelangelo's Pieta, which shimmers, even behind bullet proof plastic, and wandered a bit in the Vatican treasury, where I saw lots of jewel encrusted crowns. Some of the simpler, smaller churches I have been in (and I have been in many during this trip) feel much more spiritual and people friendly--this isn't about people at all, it truly feels about the popes and the church and power and money. But great to see, and interesting to see everyone kneeling, praying, doing the rosary, etc.
It rained this morning, which is actually nice here, because it never rains too long, and it means that the streets of Trastevere are quiet, a rare occurrence. Then the sun came out and everything was clean and bright (except the Tiber, which was a murky green).
Buona notte!
Paola
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