I am enjoying living in the lap of luxury in Bologna, in my convent-turned-boutique hotel (for those who are interested, it's called: Il Convento dei Fiore di Seda (The Convent of Silk Flowers) and it's kind of like a W hotel except without the attitude and with much larger rooms). I love it. There's one of those giant, rainforest (or whatever they are called) showerheads, so I am taking two showers a day, and they give you all kinds of wonderful little snacks when you order a glass of wine from the bar. Plus, nice thick towels, bathrobes, slippers, and cool products in the bathroom, which I always appreciate. I guess I'm noticing the difference between northern and southern italy--elegance and sophistication and efficiency versus the south's kind of all-over-the-place, slightly decrepit charm. I feel disloyal to Rome and all things I love about the south, but it's nice to spend a few days being pampered in the north. Plus, the hotel has wireless, so I can work on my ultra comfy bed with linen sheets!
As for Bologna itself, I love the colors of the buildings--all peach and clay-colored and amber. The art is only okay--I think I've been spoiled by Rome and Sienna, but the Bolognese school doesn't exactly send me. Still, there are some beautiful piazzas, and cool architecture--there are these porticos/catwalks lining the streets (apparently, they were for horses), so you walk elevated under these kind of magnificent arched ceilings. Also, the food here is unbelievable--I've had the best lasagne I've ever had in my life (it was invented here), the the restaurants are truly elegant and delicious. It's a bit weird being the ONLY woman (or person, for that matter) alone at these places, but at this point I'm comfortable--I'm reading Jonathan Lethem's newest novel, You Don't Love Me Yet, which at first I thought was mediocre, but now I'm into, so I'm fine. But Italy is not a place where women do things on their own. When I checked into my hotel, the owner immediately said hello, and my name. I asked, How did you know it was me? And she said: You are the only woman here by yourself. I couldn't decide whether to feel proud or pathetic.
Returning to Roma via the ultra-fast Eurostar tomorrow evening, at which point I will post some lovely photos of Bologna on this very blog.
Buona notte!
Paola
Monday, April 30, 2007
Saturday, April 28, 2007
Lights, camera...fountains!
Hello, you lucky people--I'm posting twice today, because the light was simply so spectacular today that I have to show off my photos. Made it to the Trevi Fountain today; it was interesting watching the crowds watch the fountain. I made a wish, but didn't actually throw a coin in; I couldn't get close enough. Will it still be granted?
It's my nature to compare, so I've made a list of some of the ways Rome has it over NYC, and NYC has it over Roma.
Ways Roma has it over NYC:
1) They are incredibly nice about letting you use the bathroom at any restaurant--they NEVER say no.
2) The light
3) The food (that counts for a lot)
4) The art
5) The drama
6) The beauty
7) The charm
8) The food is a bit cheaper, especially in markets (everything else is just as expensive or MORE expensive. Damn Euro!
9) La bella lingua italiana
Ways that NYC has it over Roma:
1) It's less polluted and quieter (really!)
2) The cultural scene: theater, film
3) My nephews
4) My friends (friends, don't be offended at being fourth on the list--I'm talking to you Nancy, if you're reading; this is in no particular order)
5) The intellectual stimulation
6) My wonderful apartment is in NYC--I miss it!
7) Phenomenal water pressure (the showers in Italy suck--excuse my Italian)
8) Lots of bookstores with books in English because I'M BORED WITH THE ONES I BROUGHT!
9) Ziplock baggies--the saran wrap in Italy is defective and the packages lack a serrated edge so it's impossible to rip it off the roll (I'll find anything to complain about)
Sono finito!
Buona sera!
Paola
To market, to market....
As nice as solitude is, I really appreciate any contact with people who live here, especially people who know my neighborhood, because I definitely learn things I wouldn't have stumbled on myself. This afternoon, I took myself around to the spots the British historian clued me in on last night and had the BEST pizza ever--it's a takeaway pizza and bread place called La Renella, and I had a slice with the most thinly-sliced pieces of potato on top that you can imagine--it had the perfect amount of olive oil, salt. It was heaven. Also stopped by the neighborhood outdoor market and bought some radishes, which I don't even like, because they looked so pretty. The plan is to make a nice salad tonight with the fresh produce, then, of course, wander out and have a pre-bedtime gelato at the Brit's favorite gelato place--one I wouldn't have gone into myself because it's on a little sidestreet and looks kind of undistinguished. Life is good. Tomorrow, bologna; I have a few Mario Batali recommended restaurants to try--on his website, he mentions restaurants he loves all over Italy, and he claims that Bologna is the culinary center of the country. Looking forward to browsing those markets, if they're open. This is a long weekend for the Italians--their Labor Day (May Day). You know, it's a communist thing.
Buon gionatta!
Paola
Friday, April 27, 2007
High art...and low
I found a place to get a manicure and pedicure today--just down the street. All is right with the world. Also had a remarkably social day. Got invited to lunch by a writer I'm hoping may contribute to the anthology--she is a fellow at the American Academy in Rome--kind of a writers colony in this beautiful, huge villa, with gardens, fountains, incredible studios with views over Rome where artists can do their art. An amazing (though slightly rarified and stuffy-seeming place). Was fun to actually get behind the locked gates. Then, of course, I get to sit with this smart woman and talk about sex--what's more fun than that?
Then spent hours walking all over Rome again--the benefit of being geographically challenged the way I am is that every corner holds a surprise: Oh--here are the Spanish steps! How did I get here? Oh, here's my favorite ice cream place. Basically, I walk around in circles and surprise myself every time by where I end up.
Had a last minute dinner with a friend of a friend who is a historian (of the Italian resistance during the war) but is currently working for a development agency--she's British but has lived in Rome for six years. So I got a nice little insider's tour of Trastevere (she lives a few blocks away); she pointed out the best gelato place, the best take-away pizza, and it was nice to share a meal with someone.
Tomorrow, work, then on to Bologna, culinary capital of Italy (according to Mario Batali). Looking forward to taking the high-speed Eurostar train and staying in an ultra chic hotel that is a converted convent.
Many photos TK!
Ciao!
Paola
Thursday, April 26, 2007
A pizza is a pizza is a pizza....
unless it's a pizza in Rome! Or Naples. I had the BEST pizza tonight, at a local Trastevere joint called Dar Poeta, preceded by a salad of the freshest, spiciest greens (no wilted, tasteless lettuce here) and a dessert that was a kind of hot bread filled with ricotta and nutella. I'm so FULL.
Had a nice, productive day. Went food shopping and felt much less at sea in the supermarket; also stopped at a few little local stores for incredible looking strawberries and melon. Got a nice chunk of work done, too--plus saw Michaelangelo's Moses in the Church of St. Pietro in Vincolo (St. Peter in Chains). I was staring at the statue with 2 other people next to me--it's so wonderful to be able to look at this incredible art for free, with no crowds.
Posted some photos of the view from Trastevere across to the historic center of Rome--this is where I cross to get to Campo DiFiore, the Pantheon, Piazza Navonna. Also got a nice view of the Colosseum and the "wedding cake" building, built by Mussolini and much derided by Italians, yet eminently photographable, with all those statues of horses and riders. Very fascistic (or military, at least), I guess.
Ciao!!!
Paola
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
An ordinary working day in Trastevere
Well, I would say I had my first non-vacation day here--that is, I did actual real-people chores and worked for 7 hours! Did laundry (worked out okay, except I left my laundry there to do an errand, then wandered around in circles trying to find my way back. An occupational hazard of being geographically challenged me. (Laundry in my building is much, MUCH cheaper.) I got my phone card refilled--these work calls to the states are super expensive. Thank god for deductions! Talked to a few writers/friends or friends/writers--I'm really enjoying the relaxing element of being alone, but it is nice to talk to people who know me at the end of the day, and remember that I have a function. Had pizza at a local joint--mozzarella, fresh tomato, ricotta salata and fresh arugula. Got in a conversation with two Dutch guys who were sitting next to me--of course we got around to why I was in Rome and my book. It is disconcerting to have to tell strangers that I am working on a book about sex in real life--the things women are afraid to talk about. I went through my elevator spiel, and about 5 minutes later, one of the guys said: I don't understand what your book is about. Can you explain again? I'm not sure if it was the sex concept or the anthology concept, or that he just wanted to hear me talk about sex again. But he seemed to get it the second time around and said it was something he'd like to buy his wife--would it be published in Holland? I said I didn't know, and scurried out of there, bumping myself on a table on my way out the door. Very graceful exit.
I've attached a few photos: By request, (this is for you, Mia!) you'll see a collection of a few items I have purchased so far (not including a few prints I got in Siena). Yes, you'll notice that there is a profusion of orange, or arrancia, as they say in Italian. My ex used to get annoyed at all the orange in my wardrobe (and apartment) so, guess what? I'm buying more of it than ever. Take THAT! Seriously, arrancia seems to be THE color in Italy this year--when I purchased the bigger bag, which I LOVE, I said to the proprietor of the store in Siena: I guess it's a good year to like orange--I said it in Italian, I mean. (E un buon anno paracere arrancia.) He was impressed--he said: Complementi! I was even more impressed.
I also bought a dress, which I'm not sure if I like or hate. Not sure it's going to work in the Conde cafeteria.
Also took a shot of my little workspace--instead of working off the too-high dining room table, which was making my wrists hurt, I stowed the TV, took the little stand it was on, and am using it as a desk, which I moved right next to the window, so I can see and hear all the commotion outside, which is like white noise, Italian style. (Note the photo of the outdoor scene, above).
And that, in short, is an ordinary working day in Trastevere. Buona notte!
Ciao!
Paola
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
A room with a view
Yes, Tuscany is all that--the hills, the food, the wine, the art. Or, at least, Siena is. I was really overwhelmed by the quantity and accessibility of the art--just me and all those Duccios, Simone Martinis, Taddeos, Donatellos, etc., etc., etc. Apparently, all those tourists were doing something other than looking at the art. I stayed in a wonderful little hotel with an incredible view from my window (I need to add here that I spent many a happy hour sitting on my bed, working on my book, looking at the view of the Duomo; beauty inspires industry!), and a little rooftop terrace where I ate my breakfast. I walked for hours and hours every day, taking in as much art as I could handle. I also met someone on the train to Siena and we had a nice dinner together--like a real traveler! Meeting people on trains. It was great to have someone to linger over dinner with.
I found so much about Siena's history fascinating--it peaked in the 1200s; was truly the center of art, culture and architecture, as you can see from these photos: Then the plague hit and 1/2 to 2/3 of the population died and the city never recovered. The population was bigger then (100,000) than it is now (60,000). It honestly felt as if I was seeing Sistene Chapel quality art everywhere I turned--the take-your-breath-away kind. And it was so much fun to wander the twisty streets. Also, the food was incredible. Every day, I went to these little butcher shops and got sandwiches of these wonderful cold cuts--salamis, something called copa, proscuitto, and truffled cheeses. (I've never eaten so much pork in my life.) Then I would eat my sandwich in the Campo, the main square, which you can see above. Some of the places would even give you a little cup of Chianti to go, and this is GOOD Chianti, from a few towns away. At night, I went to sleep with a view of the Duomo framed out my hotel window, preceding by amazing sunsets. Can't beat it.
I feel refreshed, like I've gotten a bit of wanderlust out of me, and am ready to focus hard on the book. I put all that I have that is fully revised so far and ready to edit in one document, and I have over 100 pages in very good shape. Feels good.
Ciao!!!
Paola
Monday, April 23, 2007
There's a reason Siena attracts tourists
It is unbelievably beautiful. And the art is just incredibly--truly, I've never seen so many masterpieces in such a small space. I'm here for two nights, in a lovely hotel with a view of the duomo in my window. I love it here, though I'm walking myself to exhaustion. Back to Rome tomorrow night, when I will post some incredible photos!
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Map Girl!
Yes, it's true. I am actually getting around Rome by reading a map. This is a first for me--usually I rely on my sight memory and advice from passerby. It's actually easier with a map, now that I'm getting the hang of it. I still often walk in the exact opposite direction that I'm supposed to, but I usually figure out those errors before too long, as well.
Had a nice day today. Spent much of it in the Borghese Gardens, Rome's version of Central Park, sitting on a bench and editing a story. Yes, I worked!!! It was nice to be hanging with the other Romans on the weekend, enjoying the green of Rome. Then, later in the day, went to the garden of the ultra fancy Hotel Russie, splurge on a $15 glass of prosecco, and spent an hour and a half there working as well and surreptitiously watching the rich people. Or maybe they were all people who walked in off the street, like me. In any case, it's a nice place, with nice--not snobby--service. My waitress was from Vancouver and has been living in Rome for a year and is ready to leave, she said. I think people get tired of Rome the same way they get tired of NYC--but since I never get tired of NYC, I don't envision that being a problem.
Bought the absolute CUTEST bag today. And gloves in my favorite glove shop, Sermoneta. Everything here is so unbelievably expensive, but those gloves still feel like a value.
Just so you don't think I'm completely shallow, I did manage to get some culture. Walked to Piazza de Popolo and went into one of the churches, which has two Caravaggios, several Raphaels and a few Bernini's to boot. Incredible art for free!
Off to Siena tomorrow. Wish me luck navigating!
Ciao!!!
Paola
Friday, April 20, 2007
The highs...the lows
What a day. Had an incredibly moving experience in the Jewish museum in the synagogue in the old ghetto (uncharacteristically so, for me, when it comes to religion). A long history of Jews here, from before Pontus Pilate on up....
Had wonderful food today and some great interactions with shopkeepers, only in Italian. I need to study, because I feel as if I have the vocabulary of a 2 year old and it makes me feel so tongue tied.
I get frustrated and obsessive with technology--I can't get my photos to download from my camera to my computer. Not a big deal, but I've been sitting here trying over and over for two hours. So frustrating. There may never be photos on my blog again.
Okay--it's the next morning. For some strange reason, I was able to download photos--a veritable tour of Rome's hotspots. Enjoy!
I may go to Sienna for two days, Sunday and Monday. Looks beautiful and I want to see some art. Gotta start braving the public transport!
Buonno notte!
Paola
Thursday, April 19, 2007
Why is the light here so beautiful?
Is it the golden color of the buildings? Or is Rome just suffused in a pink, peach,yellow glow? I don't know, but I wish I could bottle it and bring it back to NYC.
Had a more mellow day, today. Plenty of time to enjoy the light. Climbed to the top of Juniculum hill, a park with stunning views of all of Rome spread out across the river. Wandered around a bit and came upon some incredible villas--almost seemed like some kind of wealthy Roman suburb. Also passed by the American Academy in Rome--also gorgeous. How does one get invited to that thing, that's what I want to know!
Had an early dinner/snack in Piazza Sta Maria Trastevere--now I'm home for the evening and am actually going to do some WORK! I'm beat. I had visions of climbing up the hill to this park, then going for a run. Not happening. Climbing up to the park involves a steep hill and multiple steps of stairs--that was the workout! Take that SELF Challenge. I feel it in my legs. Now, if I could only get my CD thingie unjammed in my computer, I could actually do some yoga and exercise tapes--I'm waiting for all your wonderful comments with incisive technological advice! Please!
Ciao!
Paola
A plea for computer advice, and other good stuff
I am having many computer problems this a.m.--no matter how much I try, I'm unable to post photos to this item. I need to stop now or I could sit here all day. (Good news--several hours later, it finally worked!)
Problem 2: I put a disk in my little computer drive the first night I arrived and now the thing is jammed, which means I can't listen to music, do exercise tapes, not to mention load any new programs. I tried sticking a little pin in the tiny hole next to the button. Nothing. Any suggestions?
A few reasons yesterday was such a good day:
1) Found an Internet cafe within a 5 minute walk from my house (so I can work outside in a little piazza (right beyond the arch in the photo above)
2) Found a laundry place (while washing clothes in the sink and hanging them all around the apartment is a lovely Italian custom, I'm not going to adopt it if I don't have to!!!)
3) Found out where all the Italian mamas go with their little kids to hang out (the botanical gardens!) The lush photo with the headless statue and villa are the gardens, above.
4) Was able to purchase a blow dryer (harder than you might think)
5) Was about to purchase a pair of scissors (also harder)
6) Had a conversation of more than a minute and a half with the proprietor of a really nice wine and cheese store on Via San Francisco Ripeta, a nice nearby street, all in Italian, in which we discussed my wine purchases (he wanted to know what I was planning on eating with it, because it was a little sweet)
7) Got hit on by my waiter (a necessary ego boost)
8) Walked from my apartment in Trastevere (a terrible photo above; you can see my laundry hanging and also the little cards my colleague cristina gave me that show different walks in Rome--they're great for decorating!) to the botanical gardens, then across the river into Rome proper, where I made stops at the Pantheon, participated in the passagiatta on the fashionable Via Condotti, where I made stop into Tod's and lusted after their shoes, as I do every time I'm here. (Will I ever be able to justify spending $300 on a pair of shoes? Maybe if my book is a best seller.) Then on to the Spanish steps which were covered in purple azaleas. So unbelievable. Unfortunately, the batteries in my camera had died at that point. Took in the view of St. Peter's from the top of the Spanish steps, sat on a wall and listened to all the Americans, who all seemed so happy to be in Rome. Then, I meandered my way back (okay, got lost a few times) with stops at Piazza Navona (the Bernini statue is covered in scaffolding!), Campo Di Fiori, my friend Diana's old apartment, then back to Trastevere, where I had a lovely meal in a piazza. Pretty good for one day.
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
This is the view from out my window. I feel so lucky. I spent about 7 hours wandering the city today, buying odds and ends, revisiting favorite spots (the Pantheon!!! Always amazing)exploring my neighborhood (strolled the nearby botanical gardens, which, like all things Roman, are a bit rundown but beautiful in their decreptitude); hit all the major hot spots (the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo De Fiori) and had some good food along the way, of course. It's amazing how far away things look on the map here, but when you start walking, nothing takes much longer than 20 minutes. Here, the closest bridge to the main part of Rome, Ponte Sisto, during late afternoon, temperature low 70s...sorry to rub it in. The light here is like nowhere else. I'm so happy. How am I ever going to get work done? All I want to do is walk and walk and walk!
Ciao!
Paola
Tuesday, April 17, 2007
It's a neighborhood thing
So, I'm fast learning the good and bad of Trastevere, my new neighborhood, kind of a Greenwich Village-y, artsy, touristy former working class district of Rome that still has tiny streets with laundry hanging and beautiful golden light. This piazza is Piazza Santa Maria Trastevere, one of my favorite churches in Rome, and it's about two blocks from my apartment. It's known for its beautiful mosaics, but actually I like it because the facade of the church is made of old Roman stones that have various writing on them--kind of like Roman graffiti. That's one of the great parts of the neighborhood. Also good is the liveliness (the downside is that it is VERY noisy, even at 3 AM on a Monday night--thank god for earplugs) and that there are a proliferation of American students here. All the food I've eaten so far has been great, down to the crema cornetto I had for breakfast (and I don't even like pastry with cream in it--it is the only one they had left. Had my first supermarket experience and for the life of me couldn't figure out which milk was skim. Ultimately, made it home, despite carrying four heavy bags and forgetting that hailing a cab is not very common. In any case, a great first day. My apartment feels more settled in already.
Buon giorno, Roma!
Well, I'm here! Arrived at around 9 PM last night (instead of 1 PM the way I was supposed to) but considering the weather, not too bad. I was initially shocked at the, well, diminutive size of the apartment, but all looks brighter in the morning, especially since I got my internet to work, I have a phone number and I went around with a friend of a friend this morning who proceeded to point out the best pizzeria, gelateria, etc., etc. I'm even decorating a bit, with these really cute cards that depict different walks all over Rome. I'm going to try a few tomorrow.
I'm tired, and am about to make my first supermarket run, but wanted to check in. It's sunny and in the 70s here. I'm living in Rome!!!!
Sunday, April 15, 2007
300 flights cancelled so far!
Yup. The Nor'easter is here. Who would have thunk it? So far, my flight is still on. I will be Zen. I will be Zen. I will be Zen...
Saturday, April 14, 2007
Less than 24 hours--maybe!
Well, I finally packed (and pulled out my back lifting up a giant suitcase) but I think I'm too happy to care. I can't believe I get to spend two months in rome--it's inane for me to repeat this over and over, but that's how it feels. Because it felt so easy, even though the entire process probably took about 5 or 6 years. In the beginning, I fell in love with Rome, visiting Diana, and started dreaming about buying a vacation house in Umbria, or retiring there. At the same time, I'd been dreaming about doing a book--some book, ANY book--just since I'd always wanted to write and publish a book since I've been about 9 years old. I'd had a few aborted attempts, most notably an internet dating book with an ex boyfriend (boy, can you learn a lot about how the opposite sex views the world when you write a book on dating with them). When I finally got the sex in real-life idea--a book about the sexual things women wonder and worry about, and wish they could discuss honestly--even though the proposal ended up taking almost two years from birth to sale, it still felt easy in an important way--in that it almost always felt fun to write and think and talk about. Anyway, I promised myself that if I got a generous enough advance, I would spend a few months working on the book in Rome. Why Rome? No particular reason except that it's my second favorite city in the universe (NYC comes first). In any case, the whole thing came together fairly organically--found my apartment through an agency listed on Rome Craig's list, signed up for a few cool apartment exchange sites in the process, had a good experience negotiating for a leave at work--so, easy! When something is right, it feels easy in a certain way, even if it takes work. I think that's a good thing to remember before I head into my next relationship.
Ciao, ciao!
Paola
Ciao, ciao!
Paola
Friday, April 13, 2007
Okay, I can't put off packing any longer...
Well, maybe one more day. There's supposed to be a Nor'easter on Sunday night, but I will get to Rome by hook or by crook, as they say. I have visions of the soft light, the bumpy streets, the crumbling stone, the pink/violet sunsets at the top of the Spanish Steps in my head. I'm looking forward to seeing those visions realized. Here's to buono vino rosso, molto pasta ameritriciana and strattiacella gelato tutti i giorni! But I will enjoy these last two nights in my comfy, high thread count sheets. Who knows what I will be sleeping on in two days?
Buono notte!
Paola
Buono notte!
Paola
Wednesday, April 11, 2007
Four days and counting!
I have two more days at SELF and then I am going to Rome for two months. Can't believe it. I'm tying up loose ends all over the place but can't bring myself to start packing yet. I think I'm going to have to be satisfied with gathering everything, making lists, and then waiting til the day before. There's something about packing for a two month period that feels overwhelming.
Otherwise, I am feeling ready to go. Trying to beat the last bit of a lingering three-week cold and cough out of me with antibiotics, doing last minute dry cleaning, saying my goodbyes, studying maps. Kind of wild. And, of course, I'm actually going to have to do some work over there. I already have two social plans for my first week, which feels nice--I won't be sitting in total isolation. Someone commented on my last blog post that my internet may not work, but I'll love Rome. Suffice it to say, since I'm there to work as well as experience life's sensual pleasures (I'm talking about the food! The sun! The gesticulating people! Not those kinds of sensual pleasures!) if my wireless connection doesn't work, I am going to absolutely FREAK out.
As for doing the SELF Challenge (which I am supposed to be blogging about) it has fallen by the way side this week with my chest cold--not a good thing, since I'm going to be out of my routine in Rome. I'm going to try and make sure to do some exercise tapes this weekend, and am going to bring a few exercise DVDs with me to do from my computer if all else fails (if I can't find a good place to run or workout). I read in Time Out Rome that there is a yoga studio in Trastevere, but not sure how well I'll do given my ultra-beginner language skills.
I'm complaining a lot, but actually, I'm VERY excited.
Ciao!
Paola
Otherwise, I am feeling ready to go. Trying to beat the last bit of a lingering three-week cold and cough out of me with antibiotics, doing last minute dry cleaning, saying my goodbyes, studying maps. Kind of wild. And, of course, I'm actually going to have to do some work over there. I already have two social plans for my first week, which feels nice--I won't be sitting in total isolation. Someone commented on my last blog post that my internet may not work, but I'll love Rome. Suffice it to say, since I'm there to work as well as experience life's sensual pleasures (I'm talking about the food! The sun! The gesticulating people! Not those kinds of sensual pleasures!) if my wireless connection doesn't work, I am going to absolutely FREAK out.
As for doing the SELF Challenge (which I am supposed to be blogging about) it has fallen by the way side this week with my chest cold--not a good thing, since I'm going to be out of my routine in Rome. I'm going to try and make sure to do some exercise tapes this weekend, and am going to bring a few exercise DVDs with me to do from my computer if all else fails (if I can't find a good place to run or workout). I read in Time Out Rome that there is a yoga studio in Trastevere, but not sure how well I'll do given my ultra-beginner language skills.
I'm complaining a lot, but actually, I'm VERY excited.
Ciao!
Paola
Sunday, April 8, 2007
Party post-mortem
Or, as they say in Italian, la prossima matina (the next morning). Actually, it's nearly 6 pm and I haven't left my lair all day. I've been talking on the phone with friends, rehashing the night, cleaning, even doing part of an exercise tape (I'm not totally forgetting the Self Challenge). I think last night was my favorite party of all the ones I've thrown: The perfect number of people (40), terrific, unfussy comfort food (courtesy of Carmine's), good conversation and free-flowing liquor. (Those are my college friends, Billy and Rosalind, in my miniscule kitchen, above. As you can see, shoes are off, party is winding down nicely. It made me feel so happy to be able to see all my friends before I leave for Italy. And it also made me realize how much this thing I"m doing--taking two months to work on a book in Rome--is worth celebrating. It is finally sinking in. I feel happier than I have in months--I'm announcing that in my blog. So, thanks for coming--those of you who are reading--and tune in for more travels and travails.
Ciao, ciao!
Paola
Friday, April 6, 2007
A party girl's to do list
Tomorrow I am throwing a Roman-themed fete for myself in honor of my imminent departure. I'm ordering Italian from Carmines, making mozarella and tomato salad and having Italian pastry, gelato and nutella for dessert. It gives me a chance to see everyone before I leave for two months, and gives me a good excuse to organize and clean for the people that are coming to stay.
Here's what I still have to do for the party:
Buy soda, mixers
Buy cute paper plates (enivronmentally unsound, but I don't have a dishwasher)
Get ice
Make salad
vacuum
get in party mode
Here's what I still have to do to prep for Rome:
Everything
Well, that's not totally true--I've been getting chores done little by little. But I'm still going to slammed the two days before I leave getting Euros, making sure I have all the electronic stuff I need, packing. But I can't believe I am actually going to get to live in Rome for TWO months. It is starting to sink in--sun, food, quiet, art, wine, fun work, travel. Yippee!!!! Of course, all this anticipation is counteracted by a nagging worry: What if I go on the trip of my dreams and I don't like it? I wish I could ask Tal Ben-Shahar who teaches the science of happiness at harvard: What happens if you are actually going to get to fulfill a life dream (live in Rome, write a book)? I am feeling an enormous amount of pressure that I'd damn well better enjoy this opportunity. I wish I could kill my superego!
Ciao, ciao!
Paola
Here's what I still have to do for the party:
Buy soda, mixers
Buy cute paper plates (enivronmentally unsound, but I don't have a dishwasher)
Get ice
Make salad
vacuum
get in party mode
Here's what I still have to do to prep for Rome:
Everything
Well, that's not totally true--I've been getting chores done little by little. But I'm still going to slammed the two days before I leave getting Euros, making sure I have all the electronic stuff I need, packing. But I can't believe I am actually going to get to live in Rome for TWO months. It is starting to sink in--sun, food, quiet, art, wine, fun work, travel. Yippee!!!! Of course, all this anticipation is counteracted by a nagging worry: What if I go on the trip of my dreams and I don't like it? I wish I could ask Tal Ben-Shahar who teaches the science of happiness at harvard: What happens if you are actually going to get to fulfill a life dream (live in Rome, write a book)? I am feeling an enormous amount of pressure that I'd damn well better enjoy this opportunity. I wish I could kill my superego!
Ciao, ciao!
Paola
Thursday, April 5, 2007
On the down low
I've had an interesting experience trying to recruit women of color for my anthology, particularly African American women. Several of the more seasoned writers (over 30 or 40) have expressed reluctance to write about their sex lives openly, expressing concern that as black women writers, they will be judged differently than the other women writing about sex in the collection, because of the charged racial/sexual history/associations with black women. Two writers said nearly the same thing in the same words--really made me feel ignorant and uninformed. In my view (or, my former view), all the writers in the anthology would be taking an equal risk by exposing their sexual and emotional quirks and experiences--all is equal on the page. But, obviously, it isn't. There's an interesting article or even a whole book on this phenomenon, somewhere.
In any case, I want to include women who are unlike me in this book (in other words, not just white, middle class, Jewish, etc., etc.). I'm finding it to be the biggest challenge of putting together the collection--a mark of how limited my working and social world is, ethnically, class-wise and racially. Something to think about--I hope this book opens my world a bit, or rather, pushes me to open my world.
Ciao!
In any case, I want to include women who are unlike me in this book (in other words, not just white, middle class, Jewish, etc., etc.). I'm finding it to be the biggest challenge of putting together the collection--a mark of how limited my working and social world is, ethnically, class-wise and racially. Something to think about--I hope this book opens my world a bit, or rather, pushes me to open my world.
Ciao!
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